
I grew up in the Pretzel Capital of the World— Reading, PA. Pretzels were a part of our education. We learned about the origin of the pretzel in elementary school and were taken on a field trip to a pretzel factory.
Although Reading is in what’s called the Pennsylvania Dutch Country– from the German (Deutsch) not the Netherlands (Dutch) –it is believed that the pretzel was invented in Italy about a millennium ago. The story goes that a monk there baked pieces of dough that he fashioned in the shape of a child’s folded arms while saying his prayers. The monk’s treats for children who did a good job praying became known as “pretiolas” or little rewards in Italian and actually passed along their heritage when they morphed from the Latin brachiatus (having branches like arms) into the German word brezel and eventually pretzel.
Over time Germans have certainly been the people more associated with pretzels so as a youngster in a town where every store had at least one employee who could speak “Pennsylvania Dutch” and one of the local radio personalties was “Professor Schnitzel” we never heard about the pretzel’s Italian roots in our history lessons.
Reading had a lot of pretzel makers when I was a kid. Bachman pretzels were sold nationally but locally, I remember Quinlan, Sturgis and Billy’s, the latter were called Billy’s Bretzels. These were all what are known as hard pretzels, the kind you buy at the store.
However, the very best pretzels weren’t at the supermarket. They were street food sold out of carts in Reading’s main square for a nickel apiece— delicious soft pretzels that if you were lucky were still warm from the oven. The carts have been gone for decades but somewhere I have a picture I took of one of the pretzel cart men who I frequently bought mine from but with whom I doubt I ever exchanged a word.
In summer at our local public swimming pool the snack bar sold pretzel rods and like hot dogs they were refined by slathering them with mustard. Pretzels were even a part of local sports, not good for cheering but handy for jeering …
“Pretzels and beer, pretzels and beer, Ach du lieber, Reading’s here!”
And maybe the height of the pretzel’s status in our city took place for years at the local college which annually dubbed one of its football team’s home games “The Pretzel Bowl.” I attended one and at half time— and I’m not making this up —a small plane dropped pretzels on the stands.
In the beginning all Reading pretzels were handmade and the average worker could twist 40 a minute. By the 1930s the first automated pretzel machinery enabled bakeries to make six times as many a minute and with most of the country’s pretzel production being done in the Reading area its reputation as the pretzel capital was unchallenged.
Even today 80 percent of pretzels produced in the United States are made in Pennsylvania but I still was amazed when I moved to Maine to find my favorite Reading pretzels for sale here. I’d never seen this particular brand— Unique Splits —sold outside of Berks County.
I wondered how that happened and as a recovering journalist it didn’t take me long to find out. Morse’s Sauerkraut and European Deli is about a half hour drive to North Waldoboro from where I live in Camden. If you don’t know it’s there, you’ll never find it.
Morse’s improbably has the most food items in their store that you won’t find anywhere else in Maine. Turned out the owners were told about Unique pretzels by a customer and ordered some. The pretzels did so well other food and fish markets nearby had Morse’s order for them, too.
This revelation gave me an idea. The other exceptional and exceptionally unhealthy food speciality that Reading is famous for is its potato chips. Not just any chips but potato chips fried in lard. So, revise famous to read notorious. The best of these chips in my opinion are made by Dieffenbach’s in Womelsdorf but there are competitors like Good’s who make two types of lard chips— Good’s Blues and Good’s Reds. The two used to be made by separate members of the same family but they called a truce a few years ago and merged. Within 25 miles of Reading there are probably a dozen potato chip companies.
After complimenting one of the owners at Morse’s about his great taste in pretzels I told him about my favorite potato chips and suggested they’d be another hit from the calorie unconscious countryside where I grew up if he chose to offer them.
He winced.
